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August 2017
01 August 2017
After such a nice sunset last night the evening cooled and the weather reports on the TV were predicting frost or at least fog, and they were right. We awoke to a foggy morning with crisp crunchy grass to walk on.
A cool, foggy start to the day.
Photo's and breakfast over we had another late start to the day. Rolling down the hill into fog covered Casterton we topped up with fuel and then parked up for Joanne to enjoy a walk around the street.
Heading out of town we made our way up the other side of the fog filled valley and into bright warm sunshine. We were passing through forestry land and then into open farm country again, the paddocks littered with cattle and very large, impressive eucalyptus trees and making for very pleasant viewing as we drove.
Crossing the border into South Australia we stopped just short of the small town of Penola for a photo shoot, the trees reflecting in the water soaked paddock catching our eye.
Wet feet.
Photo shoot over we made our way into Penola and found a central parking spot for Joanne to head off exploring around the shops, and to view the impressive Mary McKillop Church, the old pub and some other nice looking buildings.
Walk over it was time to head down to the free camp at Greenrise Lake (the lake is dry), just a kilometre out of town. On arrival we found the camping area which looked very nice, but the Boggy when Wet signs were a worry. Parking up on the road near an undercover BBQ we walked around to find a spot that was dry enough to drive on before slowly driving onto the grass and setting up camp.
02 August 2017
A peaceful night in the Greenrise Lake camp last night and the only ones in. We awoke to a cool morning but the sun soon made life a little nicer. We managed to get off the grass without ripping things up or making a mess and off we went, making our way through the Coonawarra Wine District to Naracoorte for a look around.
From Naracoorte it was off down the Wimmera Highway and through Hynam, Aspley and onto Edenhope for lunch next to the lake. Back roads from Edenhope were the go and we stopped at the small camping area run by the Apex Club on the edge of Goroke.
03 August 2017
The sky was dark and the stars bright last night in Goroke, the small town not having much ambient light helping with the view of the sky. We were expecting a cold morning but awoke to a wet one instead.
Heading off down the road we made our way towards Natimuk, stopping on the way not far out of the small locality of Mitre to view the Mitre Rock as it sits atop a hill and opposite an equally impressive rock wall of the other side of the road. Pulling in to the small track we made our way to the small carpark and parked up ready to explore the sandstone rock.
Mitre Rock
Leaving the rock it was not long before we were in Horsham where the only thing we did was top up with fuel. Back out the other side we made our way to Rupanyup and the start of the silo art trail. We pulled into the Lions Club Memorial Camping area and found three other campers in already. Taking the second last spot we parked and set up in the rain, hoping the weather would break, but it didn't.
The Lions Club Memorial Camp is a great spot with power, water, dump point, toilets, a $1 hot shower and a short walk into town for $10 a night! So as the rain settled in so did we, tv and heater on and that was it for the day. With luck the weather will break tomorrow and we will go and explore some of the silo art in these parts.
04 August 2017
With such a good spot to stop for a few days and the threat of rain and wind later in the day we left for a look at some silo art around 8am. First stop the metal silo's here in Rupanyup where they sit near the now abandoned railway station, and under a foggy sky.
The Rupanyup Silo's featuring two local children Ebony Baker and Jordan Weidemann as painted by Russian Street Artist Julia Volchkova.
Heading North we arrived in and passed through Minyip, a small country farming town made famous when some of the buildings were used in the TV series The Flying Doctor which aired in the 1980's. Taking a back road we arrived in the locality of Sheep Hills, home to a few houses, an old pub, now a home, the colourful silo's and some better looking skies.
The colourful silo's at Sheep Hills, painted by Adnate features local aboriginal elders Ron Marks and Regina Hood with two fictional children.
(If you ask me the bloke on the left looks like Chef Gordon Ramsey)
For such a large painting the detail is very good.
Heading on from Sheep Hills we arrived in Brim, where under more grey skies we got some shots of the silo's and then investigated the small camping area at the back of town. $10 a night for power, toilets and showers in amongst the tree's.
The silo's at Brim were the first in the area and painted by Guido van Helten back in 2015 and feature some of the locals.
With two other silo's 60 and 100 km away we decided to go back to Sheep Wash to get some different shots, then we went back to Minyip to investigate the cheap camp on the edge of town. Six power points on the side of the toilet/shower block, generally level gravel ground again for $10 a night and all just a short walk from the main street.
Back at Rupanyup we found the neighbours had all gone out and the place was dead quiet. Time to enjoy the $1 for 5 minute hot shower and to settle in to relax. With more silo's at Lascelles and Patchewollock we will have to decide shortly if we will go that way as part of our travels, or just visit them from here.
07 August 2017
Left Rupanyup this morning after a quiet but wet and windy weekend. Made our way back to Murota and then onto Dimboola via some back roads. A stop in Dimboola to use the Laundromat and then we were off along the highway, passing through Nhill, eventually arriving at Bordertown where, after getting fuel and with clearing skies we pulled up at the RV Free camp and by the time we went to bed there was two female backpackers in a car and a motorhome parked nearby.
08 August 2017
Our camp at Bordertown was a good stop for the night. We hit the road and it wasn't long before we were in the mix of trucks, cars and anything else that was going somewhere in a hurry. Stopping in Coonalpyn to have a look at the silo art that started the idea.
The girl on the left is on both ends of the silo's.
This is the view of the art as you drive through town.
We considered stopping at the cheap Dollarwise camp in the town caravan park but eventually decided to continue on. Glad to be turning off the highway we turned off at Coomandook and made our way North to Moorelands, once a small town on the highway, now just a locality. North again along a formed dirt road we eventually stopped at a small pump station on the corner of Shulz Road and the peace and quiet was deafening and certainly to our liking.
09 August 2017
Well our bush camp certainly was quiet and once the locals had all gone past we were left to our own devices. Waking this morning to a cool North wind but clear skies. Back on the bitumen at Wynarka we made our way towards Paruna where we pulled into the small but pleasant camp spot. $10 a night gives you power, rain water, toilets and a shower. Paruna is a small town and one that has seen better days. Weeds growing up through the bowling green that hasn't seen an end or two for a long time tell the story. We have been here before but have never stopped, so this time we have.
10 August 2017
Paruna was a great stop over, quiet, cheap, pleasant and just the way we like it. We turned North out of town and made our way to Loxton, a town we have visited quite a few times. On from Loxton we arrived in Berri and stopped at the shops to top up our supplies and then made our way to the Mazda Dealer.
For some reason a few days after we had the ute serviced in Traralgon the cabin air fan had decided to make a noise and vibrated the dashboard when it was on anything higher than about 3. Everything worked okay but a high fan speed to cool or warm the interior quickly was not possible because of the noise and vibration. So, Brendan, the service manager at Rosenthal's Mazda had a look for us. He pulled the glove box out and then the cabin filter and then a wooden nut of some kind about the size of a large chestnut. How it got in there we do not know, but the best guess was a mouse looking to make a nest in the warm, dry, sheltered spot (until the fan came on :-) had made it's way in there through an air vent. Thankfully there had been no decapitations or mince mixer action and the problem was solved.
After Berri we made our way to the very pleasant town of Barmera. Stopping in at the $5 a night RV park to empty the loo and to top up our water, we moved on to enjoy lunch on the shore of Lake Bonney. Then it was time for some exploration for camping and photographic spots along the Lake. The lake side is quite sandy but we did find about four spots that we could get into, and more importantly out of with low range and 4wd if we needed them. But we were not stopping there at any of them today. We were heading for a spot nearby, but not before we explored the views and photographic possibilities at Pelican Point.
Today's camp spot was the result of an email off of our website contact page. We had been emailing back and forth with Robyn and Denis who are aiming to get their gear sorted and hit the road to explore. So, with an offer of a stop over we took them up on it.
We found Robyn in town at the Newsagents, and then after a bit of a chat made our way out to their property at the top of Lake Bonney, setting up near the shed with views over the Lake back to Barmera, and the nearby Loch Luna Reserve. What a great spot!
A walk around the property to explore the veggie garden and orchard and to say hello to Priscilla and Madge the two resident Alpaca's was terrific, before we spent the evening chatting over a meal and drinks, until quite late. Sort of an inside happy hour.
11 August 2017
After a wonderful evening chatting and a quiet peaceful night we awoke to beautiful clear skies and sunshine. With Denis away shearing until next week and Robyn off to work, we were left to our own devices as the sun climbed into the sky and the wind picked up. Showers, washing and catching up on a few things were the order of the day, as was planning a photo shoot for sunset.
No great sunset, but still a nice view across the lake at Pelican Point.
12 August 2017
Joanne must have known the sunrise was going to be a ripper and so she was off early for her morning walk, and came back with some wonderful photo's.
Sunrise at Lake Bonney.
More nice views of the lake.
Robyn was off to work this morning and by the time she got back we were packed and ready to go, but not before she inspected our rig, and we hers. We weren't going far today, a total of 2.6 kilometres in fact. With the promise of cloud building we drove down to the lake to camp and prepare for what we figured would be a good sunset.
Taking one of four tracks we had scouted the other day we set up on the sand near some old dead trees, pink and grey galah's nesting in the old limbs, and small waves lapping on the sandy shore courtesy of the breeze.
Our spot on the lake.
The afternoon slipped by as the clouds built up and before long it was time to go to the pre selected photo opportunity spots where it was just a waiting game.
The sunset started, a perfect time for some long exposure shots.
The sunset just got better and better as it went on.
Such a great view it was hard not to just stop and look.
Late into the night the colour continued until the night finally extinguished the colour and the stars and moon took over.
15 August 2017
Joanne's morning walk meant that she got some very nice blue photos as the sun began to rise, reflections so clear with no wind.
Early morning reflections.
Joanne managed to get a good shot of this one in the tree as well.
After such a magnificent sunset we spent the next day checking and processing photo's and enjoying the lake. Robyn dropped by for a chat and then it was time to prepare for some more photography, though the sunset was not a patch on the previous one, but we did manage to get some nice shots.
This old tree is now a prop for sunset photo's.
Another peaceful night on the shore saw us pack up slowly, the routine broken by the chance for some long exposure photography using the clouds and quiet water.
Lone tree and reflections were good for long exposure shots.
Plenty of vehicles going past us this morning as we packed up with The Bash in town and heading off for points unknown. Reluctantly we pulled out of our campsite and made our way back into town to top up with water and to empty grey and black water.
Leaving Barmera we made our way to Waikerie to Holder Bend Camping Reserve, a spot we have camped at before. Pulling in it was clear that it was still a popular spot. We managed to snag the last waterside spot and settled in for the day, stripping down to shorts and short sleeves, something we have not done for quite some time, but thanks to the warm 26 degrees and the humidity as the storm clouds built up.
The last waterfront property available.
With lots and lots of pelicans around up and down the river it was fun to watch them chasing the snake birds trying to get their catch and it seemed that for every snake bird there was two or three pelicans looking for an easy meal. And it was a good opportunity to practice some action shots.
On short final.
Ooh it feels cold.
Touchdown.
Spoilers active, brakes on and looking for reverse!
Being so close to the water and in a spot where any decent amount of rain would turn the ground to mud we hatched an exit plan just in case, because if we got stuck we would be staying for more than one day.
At 2.20am we awoke and the rain was coming down. The weather radar showed we were in for some colourful weather and so after some consideration, and some more snoozing and watching the radar, we packed up around 4am and made our way back up to the highway and into the truck stop near the council depot and went back to bed. Funny thing is we had to do this last time we stayed here as well, so perhaps we are a rain making machine.
Waking around 7am we left the truck stop and made our way to the riverside lookout for breakfast. With a good view over the river in either direction we enjoyed breakfast and a view of dozens and dozens of pelicans on the river in either direction.
Looking towards the ferry at Waikerie.
On towards Burra we passed through more and more citrus and cropping land before arriving at Morgan where we took the ferry across the river. Heading out of Morgan it was not long before we were into open country again, salt bush and sheep taking over from grape vines and citrus trees.
Arriving in Burra as the weather started to close in again we found a spot at the showgrounds with four others and settled in, and then the weather really arrived, blowing a gale and dumping rain hard enough to obscure town from view. Seems we have the same effect on Burra as we do Waikerie because it is usually wet and windy when we come here as well.
16 August 2017
The wind and rain battered the place last night and we awoke to a clearing sky, but the wind was still there. A trip down the street in the morning and then a drove around the town for a few hours allowed us to enjoy the old Copper Mine and then the beautiful old stone buildings such as the old Railway Station, Police Station, Courthouse, Cottages and Gaol.
The old Copper Mine and stone buildings.
The now restored Railway Station and Porters B&B.
Entry to the old railway station is via a donation. We were shown through the building, and the B&B (which is very nice) by a volunteer.
The Tiver Cottages (c 1850)
The Redruth Gaol (c 1856) was the first gaol built outside of Adelaide when Burra was the largest country town in SA.
Town tour over we made our way back to the showgrounds for a relaxing afternoon.
17 August 2017
Thanks to the weather and the fact that the price is half of the caravan park, it was another busy night for the showgrounds, Elle the canine caretaker and her two legged side kick Arty.
Waking to another cool morning and a strong wind that had quite a chill to it, we and a number of others packed up and headed off, out onto the highway and into the teeth of the fuel economy sapping wind.
Passing through open, rolling hills we made stopped for fuel at Terowie where we have camped before. Fuelled up we were taking back roads today and so started along the limestone gravel roads through the area as sort of made our way North.
Not the best shot, but you get the idea.
Arriving in the small town of Yongala we took a drive around the town to view the old stone cottages and other buildings, and the main street with its quaint, now disused storefronts of yesteryear. Having been told of the place by Robyn who we stayed with at Burra, it was nice to see the land and views around, and the town itself.
Leaving Yongala we made our way North, again on a back road with the dust kicking up in the wind and dodging the occasional damp spot in the road. Of course we had to stop at a few of the old ruins along the way for photo's as we went.
Once someone's dream home this old place sits slowly falling apart along some very pleasant scenery.
Crossing the highway again we made our way towards Black Rock and then with another short bit on the black top we turned off to follow the road up towards Black Rock Conservation Park before stopping at the Black Rock Lookout where we considered camping, but the wind was just painful so we changed our minds and moved on down the road to Orroroo.
The view towards Orroroo from the Black Rock Lookout.
Passing through Orroroo we made our way up the hill and against the wind, struggling to get any speed as gravity and the gale force winds conspired to slow us down. Eventually we reached the top and pulled into the rest area at Morchard. Having camped here before we found a spot and set up as the wind continued to blast the area and the sun came out in between showers.
The last time we were here there was a tree that has such beautiful colours in the bark as it was being shed from the trunk, and there was a thought of some more shots of it, but there was no bark being shed at the moment so we were resigned to enjoying our memory, and the odd photo of it.
Here's a photo from January 2016 when we were here last.
Wind, rain, clouds, blue sky, we have had it all today, and more so since we arrived at this camp. So with all of that we are expecting a bumpy night again tonight.
18 August 2017
A few other campers in last night and like us they were sheltering from the wind and rain. Waking this morning we made our way into Willmington where we topped up with fuel, and because the fuel was cheaper than Port Augusta, filled two jerry cans ready for some off road adventure tomorrow.
From Willmington we made our way over Horrocks Pass and down to the main highway before arriving in Port Augusta itself. Such a busy place so we made our way the gravel carpark at the Yacht Club. Shopping for food then wine before and Gawler Ranges research, phone calls and checking things out on the Internet were the tasks for this visit.
Heading out of town we took the bumpy old road past the El-Alamein Army Training Area and once back on the highway passed the large water tanks and turned right where the sign said Western Australia that way - Nullarbor here we come.
Still battling the wind we made our way to Iron Knob where we parked up in the RV rest area to enjoy the sun, which, despite the wind, was quite warm. More pouring over maps, wikicamps, online maps and then phone calls before we settled in with five other campers for the rest of the day.
We are taking the back roads into the Gawler Ranges and so will be off road, and off line for a number of days, but we hope to have plenty of nice photo's when we finally come back into the land of the Internet.
19 August 2017
Eleven campers in by bed time and a quiet night in the camp was wonderful, and by the time we had packed up and started to leave there were only a few campers left
No mistaking what this building is.
It's funny how many towns have started to provide somewhere nice and cheap for travellers in exchange for attracting people to spend their money in the town, but Iron Knob has only one shop that is open for limited hours, and the pub, but what they have provided is an excellent stopover, and we paid our appreciation by dropping some money into the donation box as we left.
Back out of town, turn left, then almost straight away we turned right, taking the dirt road that seemed more like the driveway to Corunna Station as it sits at the base of the hills. Crossing a grid we entered the yards and drove past the front door of the old homestead just a few metres away as we passed through before we were back out in the never never again.
The start of the dirt.
Just a little dust behind us as we approach yet another grid.
The Siam Station RFDS Donation Box sits at the entrance to Siam Station Homestead.
Passing through more and more open salt bush country with an ever expanding horizon we were enjoying the peace and solitude of this part of the country when we spotted a plaque at the base of a rock, so we stopped and reversed back for a better look, and it seems that somebody else out on an adventure has been this way before us.
The site of Camp 7 by Edward John Eyre.
Before long we arrived at the turn off and entrance to tonight's camp, Mt Ive Station, complete with a submarine built out of an old boiler.
That's one hell of a mailbox!
Driving the couple of kilometres into the station we arrived at a typical outback station with machinery everywhere, a shed that looked like you could build a submarine in, past the fuel bowsers and then stopped in the carpark at the shop.
Walking into the shop we were greeted by Rocky the Kangaroo and a young Scottish woman. With plenty of sunshine around we forwent the $28 powered site and paid $20 for an unpowered site. "Park anywhere you like except next to a power point" were the instructions so we selected a spot not far from the toilets and showers and settled in.
A nice hot shower courtesy of the water donkey saw us relaxing for the rest of the day. You can take a drive around the place, such as to the summit of Mt Ive which you pass on the way in, or you can pay $30 for a key to get out to the lake, but we settled for a look at the station and doing nothing.
20 August 2017
The girl had told us that the generator might kick in in the early hours of the morning and that the sound usually travels down a certain way, but we didn't hear it and so awoke after a peaceful night and to a cloudy day.
Heading off under grey skies we made our way along the red dirt highway as it winds its way through acacia trees and salt bush. Passing the turnoff to Thurlga Station we stopped for a look at an old wagon on the side of the road.
A little while later we stopped for a look at some Sturt Desert Pea that had decided to make it's home on the side of the road and then made our way onto the remains of the 1890 Pondanna Shearing Shed and Cookhouse as the rain began to fall.
The small outbreak of Sturt Desert Pea stood out clearly under the grey skies above.
Little remains of a once busy building and the rain was heading our way.
Leaving the ruins to the rain we made our way towards Lake Gairdner, reputedly Australia's 4th largest salt lake. Turning in towards the lake at the in ground, iron covered Waltumba Tank and Pump we made our way in a long a narrow sandy track, through a small creek crossing, over a rough patch and past some low hanging, track covering branches and arrived at a nice camping area. Setting up camp as light rain fell we eventually went for a walk to see the lake and found a better camping spot, so we moved.
The view of the Southern end of the lake and our campsite from a nearby hill.
21 August 2017
A very peaceful night last night, made more peaceful by the fact that we were the only people around for a very long way. Retracing our drive in we made our way back to the main road and turned South, heading back over some of our travel from yesterday, turing off towards Yardea Station, and then towards Thurlga on what someone had comically named the road as the Stingers Highway. Far from any semblance of a highway's quality we were passing through the Thurlga Station land, and then Thurlga Station come into sight.
The approach to Thurlga Station.
Similar to Corunna Station the road comes right into the yard and then heads back out again so we were able to view the house, sheds and old stone workers accommodation quite clearly.
Some 30km's later we arrived at the Thurlga Ramp location and turned right towards the National Park. The road thinned some more, the tree's were a lot closer and the surface not so good and we were lucky to make 60km/h as we passed bores with names such as Government Dam and Peter Pan Dam.
Arriving at the boundary of the National Park we fully expected the road to deteriorate even more, but it didn't, and in fact it was quite good for a National Park.
The Eastern approach to the National Park.
We stopped at the Paney Shearing Shed and Shearer's Quarters for a look at them and to read the signs before making our way past the National Park HQ, the Rangers houses and onto our camp for the night at the Wanganny Campground.
The original Paney Shearer's Quarters, now accommodation for paying guests.
Finding our camp we noticed two other campers as we drove in and selected a site. The Waganny campground has been moved closer to the ring road and is nowhere near the spot we thought it was, but never mind. Setting up camp and having lunch we decided to unhitch and take the ring road around the park, some of which is 4wd territory.
Heading back to the Shearing Shed area we made our way NW to the Kolay Hut, which we presumed was once a spot for station hands to spend the night when out on the property.
The old and the near new at Kolay, where you can also camp.
LEaving Kolay it was then time to climb the hills and to give our 4wd some 4wd action. Climbing up and around the obstacles we wound our way to the top before dropping down into small open plains as they sit nestled between the hills. Mobs and mobs of Kangaroo's and Emu were everywhere, often in mobs in the dozens and as always wanting to run across the road in front of you.
Old man roo was happy to pose for us as we passed him enjoying some green's.
Some of the views as we came across the top. Thankfully the rain showers had passed.
Arriving at the Pondanna Outstation as the rain fell yet again, we stopped long enough to view the place, take some photo's, read the signs and head off again. This outstation is also a place to rent by the night, and would be a great spot for a few relaxing days.
Approaching the Pondanna Outstation.
The Outstation building itself.
Passing through the dry creek we were 4wd climbing again, traversing the top of the ridge along a narrow winding track until we arrived at the lookout over the Pondanna/Yardea Gate area, and the rain came in yet again.
The rain coming back in to obscure the view to Conical Hill from the lookout towards Pondanna/Yardea Gate.
We turned onto the Yardea to Minnipa Road and headed South, passing two other campgrounds and the turnoff to the Organ Pipes, large rock formations that apparently look like Organ Pipes. We did consider taking the 10km rough track in but having seen photos of the pipes decided not too.
Turning off again we made our way East along the Scenic Route, passing more large mobs of Kangaroo's and Emu in the large flat open salt bush at the base of yet more large hills. Stopping for a look at the Old Paney Homestead before a look at a gravestone for two young children we were on our way again.
The original Paney Homestead now sits empty except for some old iron bed bases and basic kitchen equipment which you can view by entering the back door.
Back at camp we enjoyed afternoon tea and then another quiet night reflecting on the day's activities, what we saw, what we missed, watching tv and working out what we would do tomorrow.
22 August 2017
Peaceful and quiet we awoke to birdsong and, having battled through the wind and rain for the past week, a promising day weather wise. Breakfast over we hitched the house back up to the ute and headed off West along the same scenic route we came back on yesterday. Turning South at the entrance to the park.
We had expected the road conditions to improve having left the National Park, but they got worse and coming round a corner we were quickly in the grip of the worst corrugations we have ever had the misfortune to drive over. Slowing down was almost impossible but we managed it courtesy of turning the trailer brake up and hitting the anchors, then it was a case of trying to find a safe and comfortable speed to ensure we limited the damage and kept our fillings. Thank goodness we had lowered our tyre pressures days ago and there was some give in them as well as the suspension.
Once over the bad road and onto smoother, graded, limestone road we stopped to inspect the damage. Turns out we got off pretty lightly, though we were losing water from a crack around the top of one of our water tanks and our kitchen sink tap and water filter tap had come loose, but over all, we were lucky. The damaged water tank will only take about 3/4 of it's 160 litres now so it's a good jo we have another 140 litre tank as well. So it seems that we will be looking for a plastic welder, or a new tank when we get to Perth.
Arriving in Minnipa we made our way to the sports oval to empty the toilet and to fill the other water tank up. Then, as we have done before we made our way up to Tcharkulda Hill where there is a nice campsite and a very large granite rock to climb and walk around.
23 August 2017
Leaving Tcharkulda Hill this morning we stopped back at the sports oval to top up with water and then we were on our way. Today's travel was going to be a bit more than normal. Taking roads we have traveled before we were pretty much just going through the motions. Cutting across from the highway we made our way to Haslem where we considered stopping but moved on.
Heading up the coast through some very ordinary crops we pulled into Perlube Beach and inspected a spot actually on the beach. The camping area sits next to houses on acreage as they sit on the coast with nice water views. Camping in the carpark is not allowed so it has to be on the beach, and so a walk on the beach to investigate was undertaken. Soft sand and the chance to get bogged was everywhere and while getting onto the beach would be easy driving down past other campers and then turning might have been a different matter.
Moving on we made our way to a small conservation park by the name of Wittelbee. Turing off the bitumen we followed the limestone gravel road and then turned off to head up the small hill and onto the headland. With no formally posted camping spots, we found small sandy spots nestled in amongst small shrubs and more suited to tents or camper trailers. Upon reaching the turnaround though we found a spot partitioned off with copper logs and a small fence so took it to be the caravan suitable camp that is mentioned on the Parks SA website. Taking up residence and then getting online to book and pay ($12) we made ourselves at home and started to enjoy the almost 270 degree water views.
24 August 2017
A pleasant evening and sunset across the water and the it was time for bed. Having the place to ourselves was very nice and the only noise was created by the wind and the wave action.
Around 1.20am a mid-night nature call and a look outside meant putting a jacket on and stepping outside in my PJ's to get a shot of the milky way and the lights of Ceduna.
Milky Way, Clouds and the lights of Ceduna glowing in the early hours of the morning.
Waking this morning after the mid-night photography indulgence we took a leisurely start to the day before making our way into Ceduna for fuel, food and a water top up.
Heading out of town we took a detour to Denial Bay where we enjoyed a beautiful view of the bay as the conditions meant the sky and the sea blended into each other with no discernable horizon, and then lunch by the bay.
The sea and sky blend into one between the headlands at Denial Bay.
Lunch and views over we made our way out of town and off towards Nadia's Landing where we intended to camp. Turning off the bitumen we made our way down the well made limestone road until we arrived at a small area on the waters edge. A couple fishing, some sea gulls and percy pelican were the only ones here as we set up camp and settled in with the sun keeping the temperature at a pleasant 18 degrees.
25 August 2017
Waking this morning we were slightly surprised that the tide had gone out even further than we had thought it would and there were plenty of rocks left exposed after the tide had departed.
We left our campsite and made our way towards Penong along a good limestone rock road which runs almost parallel to the highway to the North. Skipping along at 85-90km/h it was a pleasant traffic free trip, pleasant that is until we passed the sign back to the highway. Still heading towards Penong the road narrowed and as it climbed the dunes the corrugations made the going slow for a while, but it was still better than the highway.
Arriving in Penong there was plenty of highway traffic, and plenty of caravans on the move. We stopped to check for damage after the corrugations and then made our way along the highway to Bookabie where we turned off down another limestone dirt road towards Fowlers Bay, where we have been once before, but never stayed.
Pulling into and setting up in the caravan park it was a good chance for a long hot shower and to do the washing. Joanne took a walk around town, a look at some of the whales in the bay and then up onto the sand dune for a look over town, bringing back this great shot.
Fowlers Bay township, home to 20 permanent residents (when they are all home).
The caravan park was almost full when we got here and despite the departures was about the same at the end of the day, possibly due to the whale watching boat trips that are on at the moment.
26 August 2017
With whales to be seen in the bay we booked Joanne in for the whale watching cruise and with the wind and swell up, hoped that she would spend her time at sea taking photo's and not feeding the fish.
Pulling out of the caravan park and setting up on the water front we sat in the sun waiting for the whale cruise to start at 10am. At around 10 to 1pm the boat docked again and Joanne came up the jetty with some tales and photo's.
They came pretty close.
And then the show started.
Just some of the shots Joanne managed to get.
Back on shore Joanne was pretty happy with her adventure, and the fact that she did not feed the fish. We made our way out of town and onto the highway at Nundroo for a fuel top up and then, with a tailwind for once, headed for the carpark at the old White Well Tank which sits at the entrance to the Head of the Bight.
Pulling in there was only one other camper there and they were sheltering from the wind behind the old stone tank. We set up and settled in, and by sunset we had another five in for the night with us.
So with all of the whale tales from Joanne today, and being at the head of the bight where the sign says there are 90 + whales at the moment, there are no prizes for guessing what we will be doing tomorrow morning before we head off again.
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27 August 2017
Ten of us campers spent the night together in the carpark and awoke to a partly cloudy but promising day. Some were up and at it as soon as the gates opened, others took their time and we were somewhere in the middle.
Arriving at the Head of the Bight Whale Centre we paid our money and walked out to the cliff edge in anticipation of an ocean littered with whales, but alas, we were disappointed, well, sort of. By the time we left we had seen about 24 whales all lazing around in the ocean not far from the coast, feeding their young and generally doing very little.
This is about the best of the views that we managed to capture.
The wave action on this little shelf was pretty good though.
Leaving the whales we had seen to their day we made our way back out to the highway and onto Nullarbor Roadhouse itself to top the fuel tank up to full, passing on the way in a small 1968 Bedford truck with a home made, plywood motorhome body as the owners were topping up the external radiator (wish we had got a photo). Going inside to pay and asking the cashier for a road report on the road to Cook received a response of "what's a road report?". Well, he was a German backpacker so...and when it was explained all he said was "its a rough road and you need a 4 wheel drive". Great help he was!
So after fuelling up and airing down we took the dirt road that is the old Eyre Highway and headed off into the Nullarbor itself as the safety of the bitumen headed off in a different direction.
The track along what used to be a wide dirt highway.
The Old Eyre Highway along here is certainly the slow going with much of the road covered in large limestone rock and speeds anywhere from 20 to 40 km/h were the norm, though in some spots we did manage to get up to 60 km/h.
We eventually crossed what was the dog fence, turned and headed North at the road to Cook some 95 kilometres away. The road was wider and smoother which meant we could easily manage 70-80km/h.
The road to Cook has so much promise, but will it last?
About 20km's out of town was the official blowhole sign so we stopped for a look. Walking over past the tyre we found two holes with almost perfectly round shafts underneath surface rocks and cool underground air conditioning coming out of them.
The official blowhole sign.
The Blowholes. Almost perfectly round like they have been drilled into the earth.
Leaving the blowholes we continued on until about five kilometres out we could see the trees and then the buildings that were, and are the current township of Cook. Driving in we passed the old basketball and tennis courts that haven't seen any sport for many a year, then the swimming pool which is now filled to the brim with dirt, the fake green grass alongside and a sign indicating it was the Cook Cricket Club both of which sit outside of what was the Cook Area School.
With nobody around we made ourselves at home and wandered along the rail front, inspecting the buildings and reading the signs, a train further up the line taking on fuel. Back in the car we passed new hardiplank houses, a general mess hall and some donga's. Stopping outside of a house that had a sign indicating it was the Town Caretakers Residence we managed to speak to Adam who told us where we could camp (almost anywhere we liked) and who told us about the town that is now nothing more than a fuel and water stop for the trains, and a changeover point for the drivers.
The official platform of Cook, complete with steps ready for the Indian Pacific Passengers.
The Store, Post Office and Repeater Station at Cook (no longer used).
Says it all.
His and Hers Cells, and the Jailhouse Rock.
Our campsite in the grounds of the now abandoned school.
The mural to Murray Sims on the water tank plinth at the school.
Setting up camp in the old school grounds we settled in for the rest of the day.
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28 August 2017
Waking to a coolish morning after a very quiet night we were waiting the day out before heading over to the station area to watch the Indian Pacific come in, and just before 3pm there it was, rolling into Cook.
The IP arrives in Cook.
Almost at a stop the train is almost ready to unleash it's passengers on Cook.
With the engine, car carriage and twenty five passenger, sleeper and dining cars the train was too long for the siding as the engine pulled forward to where it could refuel, and some of the carriages were way back and even parked across the railway crossing on the road North of town. Once the train was stopped passengers began to climb down the portable steps and spread across the area like ants, eager to stretch their legs and to see this outback outpost of a ghost town, and that was time for us to exit stage left. Obviously some had not expected to see other travellers like us there and many stopped in their tracks to watch, and to photograph us as we left in a cloud of dust.
With clouds forming over Cook we made our way South and after 95km's arrived back at the intersection of the Cook Road and the Old Eyre Highway and where we took up residence for the night in a claypan not far from the intersection.
Our camp at sunset.
The sun sets over the land and our camp.
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29 August 2017
Another beautiful, uninterrupted night in the Nullarbor we packed up and headed off West along the Old Eyre Highway, dodging the rocks and rough bits while trying to video the trip and to see the sights.
Arriving at the turnoff to the old Koonalda Station we turned off and headed in to see it again and to have a late morning tea. Pulling in we found an older couple there, and they told us of others up at the Koonalda Cave. We walked around a bit and did some video and then, almost at the same time, the older couple the four ute's and occupants that stayed in the homestead last night and us all departed and left Koonalda in peace once more.
Making our way West once again we stopped at an old car wreck, and then an old water tank and cattle yard,before spying a two wheeled track off heading North and off into the never never. A check of the GPS and the map showed it was the Old Coach Track that eventually comes out on the North side of Eucla, so we decided to take it.
Following the wheel tracks the underside of the rig was getting brushed by the grass and small salt bushes, the soft dirt bellowing into the air behind us and totally obscuring the view behind. We stopped to see if we could find a cave that was showing on the GPS but we couldn't see it, so had lunch just parked on the track before moving on.
We didn't find the one we were looking for, but we found this one note far away.
Still following the two wheel tracks we spotted a dingo not too far away from the track so slowed to get a photo. The dingo for it's part was not worried at all about us, stopping almost in defiance to water a bush it trotted down the track in front of us before heading across the road and off into the long grass.
At times the grasslands changed to scrub and we were taking chicken tracks around the trees we couldn't fit between or threading the needle with others.
Ding, ding, ding on the phone ringing out the message that we had come into a part of the earth where there was a fragment of a phone signal so we stopped to see if we could retrieve them, but no, the signal was not strong enough and so we pressed on until we turned off the track onto another side track and headed South to where the Warbla Cave was supposed to be, and after a few kilometres we found it - WOW.
There before us was a large hole in the ground about 100m across, and in the bottom of that hole was another hole as it lead off under the plain and the road as it continued on. We stopped for a look and some photos and then decided that we would camp for the night nearby.
The Warbla Cave
The cave entrance.
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30 August 2017
Waking this morning the sky was on fire and as the saying goes, red sky in the morning, nomads warning. We left our camp and continued along the old coach road.
Warbla Cave Sunrise.
More claypan's, wheel lines through the grass and threading the needle between trees and shrubs was continuous as we made our way along and before long the SA-WA Border was coming up on the GPS. We stopped where there were two small piles of stones, some old dead tree's laying down in a line and some old fencing wire and called that the WA Border and Quarantine Stop.
SA/WA Bush Border.
Border crossing over we were threading the needle more often than not until we came into a clearing where we found the Naliwooden Ruins just North of Eucla.
Naliwooden Ruins
Leaving the ruins we made our way through more challenging country before crossing a large open area that turned out to be the Eucla Golf Course. We also passed the first road and sign on a 44 gallon drum that indicated the way to Forrest up on the railway line. Soft sandy dried up bogs required careful wheel placement at the same time as threading the needle.
Joining the well made road for the last kilometre or so into Eucla. The sign on the other side of the drum says Forest to the left, Deakin to the right.
Pulling into Eucla we filled up with fuel, booked into the caravan park and started the washing, showers, cleaning, checks of the rig, phone calls to stations for information on passing through their property and of course permission to do so.
View our track in Google Earth using this file. It will download to your computer and you can activate it in Google Earth (if you have it) by clicking on it. If you are viewing this on a tablet it should open a new window and you can load it from there.
31 August 2017
After a comfortable night in the caravan park we left Eucla this morning and followed the escarpment edge for a little while along a reasonable limestone track, reasonable that is until it started to narrow and we were back crawling along at 5-10km/h threading the needle between the trees and trying to keep the scratches and damage to a minimum.
The track along the edge of the escarpment started off okay...
and then narrowed to this and even narrower.
Crossing claypan's and then back into trees again as the track became barely wider than our rig and with more twists and turns than a game of twister. Claypan then trees, claypan then tree's and nowhere to get out of it and the routine just repeated until we came to one last claypan and found that we had arrived at the Weebubbie Cave, best described as a large hole in the ground with a cave un the bottom somewhere.
Despite the warning signs saying the cave was closed due to rock falls we arrived to find half a dozen campers there, their camps spread around the place and very well set up. On the opposite side of the very large hole and on top of where the cave entrance is, there was an equipment winch used to lower the heavy scuba tanks and other bits of equipment down, and presumably as an emergency extraction winch on one side and a ladder down into the hole on the other. A ladder on the side closer to the camp there was a ladder down into the hole.
Speaking to one of the campers, a man from Tasmania, we found out that the cave goes for about a kilometre underground and that yes, the water is so clear that it feels like you are floating in mid air.
Weebubbie Cave
Weebubbie Cave. The ladder is on the right, the winch (not visible) on the opposite side.
Leaving the diving campers to their day we followed the Weebubbie Cave Loop Road, threading more needles but slightly easier ones. Passing the Weebubbie Blowhole, a small man sized hole in a limestone rock that sites right next to your front right hand side wheel as you pass. From there we continued on until we arrived back onto the Eucla to Forrest Road where we turned left at the 44 Gallon drum.
Having had a chat with the station manager at Mundrabilla we managed to obtain permission to follow the Old Coach Road through the station as far as the track up from the Mundrabilla Roadhouse so ventured off into the wild blue yonder. We did ask about following the road right through to Madura but as they are mustering they preferred if we didn't, and so we respected that and did as we were requested. Incidentally, the manager told us that the Old Coach Road is not the route of an old coach as far as anyone is aware, it just got given that name by someone, true or false, we don't know.
Don't bring your weeds with you or light a fire!
We were passing through open station land once more, the only obstacles being the odd rocky section and for the most part it was just wheel tracks through the grass and claypan's. Stopping for a look at two old wrecks on the side of the road we then turned off again and headed West, the road North continuing on to Forrest.
It's been a long time since this one ran.
A little further along this old girl was sitting off the side of the track so we stopped to say hello and to grab a photo.
Turning left at the Chowilla Doline (a large sinkhole) we decided to look at it on the way back and headed off along the bumpy limestone track until we came to the Abrakurrie Cave. Looking more like a long gash in the earths crust made by something from outer space there are some walking tracks down into the bottom.
The view back to the track from above the cave wall.
Joanne standing on the rim to the far left shows how big this cave wall is.
After climbing back out from the cave wall it was time to head back to the Chowilla Doline for a look before making our way across the grasslands all the time being escorted by great mobs of kangaroo's as they bounced along off to one side and crossing the road well ahead of us. It was funny to watch them bound across the road and then to notice a smaller one who couldn't keep up with them put it's foot down and go like the blazes to cross the road before us.
Arriving at the Wileura Rockhole with a dead cow in it we somehow managed to miss the track that was the turn off to the Mundrabilla Roadhouse so did a u-turn at the same place the last person along here did. Turn off located we spied a wild black dog who initially came towards us, but it was very timid and had it's tail between it's legs as we approached, but it decided that we were a threat and took off.
17 wild camels just stood there in front of us for a while before the bull yelled and they all took off.
Kangaroo's, Wild Dogs, Camels and now Emu.
Threading the needle and down to a snails pace again, Joanne was out of the car holding branches back, breaking off dead ones, helping to guide me through and investigating chicken track possibilities. The top and sides of the rig getting the dust brushed off by the leaves and branches, but somewhere we must have miss judged one and found that we had put a small branch through the plastic window on the door to the 5er, luckily there was no other damage to any other windows, the awning, door stop or outside light. Well, nothing could be done about it now so it we just used duct tape to put the the bits we found back into place and to cover the hole. Looks like we will be getting a new window, or maybe a new door when we get back. Oh the fun of it all.
Finally out of the bush we came to a good track that joined the track we came down further along the old coach road and it was a pleasure to not have to duck and weave to go forwards. Joanne was also pleased not to have to wrestle the branches. The treeline began to thin out as we came to the top of the Kuthala Pass and we could see the Eyre Highway below as it crosses the plain which stretched out before us.
The Eyre Highway came into view as we crested the hill and began our descent to Mundrabilla through the Kuthala Pass.
Coming down the hill and around a corner we came to a gate, and our first view of Mundrabilla Roadhouse.
Back on the highway we made our way to the old roof covered water tanks just 5km's West of the roadhouse and where we enjoyed a late lunch, put some highway air pressures back into the tyres and did another damage inspection of the rig, which thankfully other than the broken door window and a few scratches, came up blank.
Lunch over we made made our way a little further along the highway to the Jilah Rockhole Rest Area where as we were the only ones there, we picked the best spot and settled in for the rest of the day.
View our track in Google Earth using this file. It will download to your computer and you can activate it in Google Earth (if you have it) by clicking on it. If you are viewing this on a tablet it should open a new window and you can load it from there.
Mark Twain once said "...years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do that by the things you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." - and so we will.
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